How to Cut (Afro) Curls Properly

Curl-ish interview - How do you actually cut curls properly?

Tips and tricks for your natural curls

Finding a hairdresser who knows natural curls is hard. You often despair searching and don't let just any regular stylist near your curl mane.

Cutting afro curls requires a lot of love for the hair from the pros.

We visited Hanna and Tina from Curl-ish in Zurich. Two curly heads who love their natural curls and have been bringing curls from wavy to kinky curly to life in their beautiful salon since October 2018.

Why are specialists for curly hair so hard to find? Why is that?

Hanna: In the hairdressing industry it hasn't really sunk in yet that natural curls need special care and cutting. Many assume that hair, whether straight or curly, has to be treated the same. With curls, the key is to address each individual curl.

Should you regularly trim ends on (afro) curls?

Hanna: Yes, I recommend trimming 2-4 times a year. It also depends on your current haircut and your hair goals.

How do I know it's time for a trim?

Hanna: It varies. I dye my hair for example and notice either split ends or little knots at the ends. Those are signs to trim, even if it's just 1 cm.

Can any hairdresser cut afro curls? Is there special training?

Hanna: There are various continuing education courses after your hairdresser training. The training itself covers hair structure, chemical properties, etc. If you want to specialize in curls, those are courses you take after training.

It's always better to go to a hairdresser who understands the hair and doesn't already signal with their look that they can't handle it. I'd always recommend getting your hair cut by someone specialized in cutting curls who brings the necessary know-how and the right products.

How much time do you take for a curl cut?

Hanna: I take time for every strand. From consultation through washing, cutting and styling I plan around 2.5 hours. For wavy hair around 1.5-2 hours. For kinky hair 2.5 hours.

Do you approach different curl types (2a-4c) differently?

Hanna: Generally no big differences. I work with the structure of the hair on all curl types, wavy or kinky curly.

For wet cuts the hair is wet, combed out and cut straight with a comb. Obviously this doesn't work with curls, it creates unevenness. Every curl has its own bounce.

Can defined kinky curls be achieved with the right cutting technique?

Hanna: I can't change the hair through cutting, of course. You can work with the right products and styling to gain length. For kinky curly hair I recommend techniques like bantu knots, twist outs, etc. Bantu knots are wet hair strands twisted up. Imagine wrapping rollers in, but without rollers. Your curl pattern changes and the result lasts until the next wash.

Should natural curls be cut dry or wet?

Hanna: I recommend cutting curls dry. That's how I learned in my training in New York. It's important to me that my clients come with hair loose, detangled and free of styling products. Then I can see how each curl falls and what the natural structure is. I cut the curls individually. After that I do a co-wash and look at the cut wet. The main cut though is done dry.

Can I cut my own curls?

Hanna: It depends on how brave you are (laughs). I know many people who say, I'll just give it a try! But please use proper hair scissors, not nail scissors or paper scissors, those aren't good for hair. Basically a visit to the hairdresser is always recommended.

Finally - your ultimate secret tip for cutting curls? What's your secret recipe?

Hanna: Love for the hair and understanding the hair makes the difference. You have to love the hair.

Many thanks to Hanna and Tina for your valuable tips. We're totally excited about the girls from Curl-ish and want more!

More about Curl-ish at www.curlish.ch (originally published on 04/19/2019 on our old homepage)