Styles and the Perception of Afro Hair - A Journey Through Time

Colonisation and slavery changed and destroyed much of Black culture, including hair culture. That is why we think it is important to look at the origins and history of Afro hair culture, in order to reclaim part of that lost culture. 

3000 BC: Ancient Egypt

Interestingly, hairstyles at that time were similar to today's. From locks, braids, twists and short natural hair to wigs, everything was there. The elite of the time stood out with more elaborate styles, such as more expensive wigs. 

Even back then, women wanted to encourage their hair growth. Castor oil was a popular traditional choice for this. 

600 AD: Kingdom of Benin (today south-western Nigeria)

Benin Bronzes from the former Kingdom of Benin show the most breathtaking variety of hairstyles, which reflected a person's position in society. Wooden and ivory combs were used for detangling. Like shells and gold jewellery, they were also worn in the hair as decoration. Charcoal and palm oil were used in the belief that they supported hair growth and kept the hair a beautiful black. 

1500: Colonisation and slavery

A dark chapter begins for the African continent. This chapter still has devastating effects on hair culture today. Racism and Eurocentric beauty ideals destroyed the standing of Afro hair. On top of that, the exploitation of Black people meant there was no time left to keep wearing familiar hairstyles. 

1800/1900: Liberation and independence

After the end of slavery and the colonies, there was at first no hair care industry for natural Black hair. Chemical straightening was especially popular; depending on financial means, hair was also worn short, in cornrows or covered with scarves. 

Life remained hard, marked by poverty and poor working conditions, and this affected people's health. Sadly, scalp conditions were not uncommon either. 

1890s: Madam C.J. Walker

Madam C. J. Walker is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the first self-made female millionaire in the USA. The African American woman was one of the first to develop natural products for Afro hair, revolutionising the African American hair care industry. Madam C.J. Walker and like-minded successors raised awareness of using products for Afro hair that care for the hair and scalp instead of damaging them. You can read her inspiring story in this blog post of ours.

1920s: Trends from France

Inspired by French fashion, short bobs were in vogue among women. Black women were also influenced by this trend and used hot metal combs (pressing combs/hot combs) to straighten their hair. Many Afro hair salons adapted their services accordingly.  

1930s: Rastafari

The social and religious Rastafari movement was founded in Jamaica as a protest against the British colonial system. For Rastafari, dreadlocks are an important part of their identity. 

Probably the best-known representative of the movement was the Jamaican reggae singer Bob Marley, whose worldwide success in the 1970s also made the Rastafari movement and dreadlocks more popular. 

1960s/1970s: Cicely Tyson and the civil rights movement

In 1962, the African American actress from Harlem caused a stir with a TV appearance (in the series "East Side/West Side") simply because she wore her hair natural. At that time, Black women were only seen in the media with straightened hair or wigs. She made another statement in 1972 with her cornrows in the film "Sounder".

Over the course of her career, Cicely Tyson won the Tony, the Emmy and an honorary Oscar, among other awards, and repeatedly championed the acceptance of Afro hair in all its different forms.

The civil rights movement, which was growing stronger in the USA at the time, also triggered a new shift in the way Black people saw their hair. You can read more about this in another of our blog posts.

From the 1980s: Emancipation from Eurocentric influence

From the 1980s onwards, natural Afro hairstyles became increasingly popular. Here are a few well-known examples: high top and flat top fades in the hip hop scene and on Grace Jones, box braids on Janet Jackson, the afros of Kelis and Macy Gray, the natural hair movement on social media, Solange's anthem "Don't Touch My Hair", and the many style variations of Erykah Badu and Issa Rae.

Awareness of harmful ingredients in products for Afro hair, such as chemicals, silicones and alcohols, is also growing. 

Black people increasingly no longer want to fight against their hair, but rather to embrace the advantages of its natural texture and wear their hair with pride in all its cultural variations.

The main source for this article was the book "The Story of Afro Hair" by K.N. Chimbiri, which we warmly recommend. With beautiful illustrations, it covers 5000 years of Afro hair history, trends and styles.